Hello hello!
It´s been so long since I wrote last time. I dunno what to start with and what to write about - happened to much since that time.
Ok - fist of all - about Cordiliera Blanca. Well, we started in a nice weather, quite warm and sunny. For a short time we were even angry at ourselves for taking so much off warm clothing for that trip. The first trek was quite easy since it was more or less along the river - thus not too steep. We hiked quite far, for about 7h as far as I remember. Finally - me and Zosia were not able to walk more so we decided to camp somewhere where we were standing by that time. On the way there we met so many locals - but no tourists. We talked to them, gave them some medicines which they asked for (later on other people somewhere in the mountains asked us for - apparently they have no access or so). On the way we kept meeting thousands of cows and donkeys. Second day we climbed up to the pass where from we were supposed to have breathtaking view for entire Cordiliera Blanca. Unfortunately, according to our bad luck considering weather, half way started to rain, more up - to snow. So wh reached the top - we have taken the photo just to proff we were there and started to walk down. When we walked the most steep part, the pass started to clear up and where we were all the way down in the valley - he pass was totally clear. Around us we could see few peaks - only for moments between one and the other cloud passing. We could see Alpamayo which is said to be the most beautiful peak in the world, we could see Artesanaju which is the mountain from Paramountain logo. It was quite sweet after all the hiking in the rain. There we slept one more night and the third day hiked down to the bottom of valley. Luckily, we had no problems with finding taxi) this collectivo one to go back home. We ended up picking everybody on the way, thus arriving to the next town we were 8 passengers & driver in the car.... But we survived as you can guess, later on changed 2 times and finally arrived to Huaraz. On the way we wanted to see a lagoon at the bottom of Huascaran, the highest peak of peru, but again - as you can guess, the weather was really bad and the top was not visible at all. Right there were the glacier was starting - there the clouds were starting as well....
We´ve hit Huaraz by the evening, took shower, went to our panaderia (means bakery), bought - this time - 60 buns (yes, they looked at as a weirdos but no wonder) and next day started for Cordiliera Huyhuash. We went to the bus station at 7 or 8 am but it happened that there is one direct bus to the place we wanted go, Llamac, at 5am.... thus, after short argument we decided to go to Chiquian, sleep there over and next morning go to Llamac and start the trek. Once we got off the bus in Chiquian, there were about 20 pairs of eyes on us... Seemed like they haven´t seen any Gringo for ages. There we were in really local place, and that is what we were missing. Thus, we said that even if the weather will be horrible it was worth going there to see that place, talk to the people, drink beer in rain on the main square etc. While we were waiting for the bus, people told us that the weather in Huayhuash now is quite horrible. In the mornings there is few hours of sun but later on is pouring rain - starting from, let´s say, 1-2pm. But we decided to go there anyways. Thus, about 11am have hit the bottom of our path which was in village called Llamac at 3300m above see level. What was our aim for first day??? At the beginning only 1000m change of altitude - means to reach pass at 4300m. ... Well, no worries! what´s that for us (me and Zosia) - best trekkers ever met! ;) We wouldn´t make it? Oh, c´mon... but what is more - it was not the end... it was only 1/3 of the distance. About 0,5h before we reached the pass started raining and has got really foggy. But what more - there were thunderstorms all around us.... Great, ey??? But when we reached the pass... the view was stunning and breathtaking.... We could see almost all peaks on the other side of the valley. We could see Yerupaja, the second highest peak in Peru, as well as Jirishanca with it´s Grande and Chico tops. All that hidden a little bit in the clouds but visible enough to be very impressive. Ok, after taking some pictures and taking off raincoats (not needed any more!!! (surprising, huh!) we have taken off again. Now much easier because almost all the time down the hill. As it was said, around 1-2pm started really raining thus rest of the day we were trekking in the rain. We passed the village right in the middle of nowhere. We thought it was abandoned but when one dog almost have eaten us we realized it is not abandoned. Lucky us that some people showed up and called that crazy dog back home. That is how we reached first camping place, next to the lagoon right at the bottom of the glacier coming down from Yerupaja. We had put up the tent in the rain, slept and cooked in the rain and woke up in quite clear weather. Oh... cooking... that is another story... in Patagoni we had found new camping gas who somebody abandoned thus we took care of it :) And since our first camping gas was running out of supply we took the new one. The problem is that we didn´t check if it fits to our cook.... and right there, when we were totally cold and looking forward to warm meal it came out that the camping gas and the cook does not actually fit each other.... To remind you - that was the first out of 4 days in the mountains.... But after cutting off some plastic parts of the cook and Zosia´s doing her vbest - we finally managed to attach each other an cook. Although, many times it kept falling apart and stop working. It took us about 2h to cook but finally we managed. later on, next days Zosia has invented the way how to improve and she knotted the whole thing with some knitting wool and it worked much better. Her father would be proud of her :)
Next day we were supposed to reach the pass of altitude 4750m. We did hike up, meeting cows all the way up there - no idea why they did climb up there since there was not too much of grass. But apparently those were the cow´s scouts! Hihihi..... At the pass we realized there is no longer any path visible. But we crossed because it seemed we´re on the right way. We have went down of the very steep slope helping with the bushes and at the bottom of the "sub-valley" we have got attacked by the cows. No, kidding but suddenly all cows of the herd started approaching us being very interesting. Apparently they don´t see people, especially crazy Polish people in the place. Ok, we descended a bit more, encountered some hut and its inhabitants who asked for.... some medicines!!!! yes, as usually... I started running off by that time... At the bottom of the main valley we came to the village... It happened to be the miner place where they extract the zinc and lead. But what is more important.... we realized we are about 7km down the valley than we wanted to end up... But luckily, the first person we asked where we are told us that in 2h will go up the valley with his truck and can give us the ride. While we were riding, it came out that, apparently, that was quite an important person in that company (btw. cooperating with the Japanease. Ha! Now we know where Japan has their source of zinc and lead. Ok, again we have put up the tent in rain there - nothing new. Next day when we woke up - it was all totally foggy,,, great beginning of the day, ey? We had to pay 15 soles each, but bargained down to 30 for all. Then another pass - this time only 450m change of altitude. And than all the way down.... We lost the way again, but after finding it we decided to cross another pass. it was quite easy trail but we didn´t know that it will be so long. Basically it was raining that day all the time thus we didn´t see much of landscapes, we reached the altitude where it was snowing already. Zosia kept swearing at all the passed cows, I was totally soaked. When we finally reached the pass, I said that I´m not able to walk any more - I was too soaked and frozen. We had hard time putting up the tent since we couldn´t feel our hands. When we finally did it took me about 1-2h to stop shaking. I have drunk a bit of Amol, then we drunk the tea from coca leaves and later on ate the dinner with a looooooooot of garlic.... As a result of that we were ok next day. The very next day, we have reached the Laguna Caruacocha which was supposed to be the most beautiful place in Huayhuash with view of all the peaks - Yerupaja, Siula Grande and all the surrounding... But as you can guess - it was all in the fog....
We´ve hit Huaraz by the evening, took shower, went to our panaderia (means bakery), bought - this time - 60 buns (yes, they looked at as a weirdos but no wonder) and next day started for Cordiliera Huyhuash. We went to the bus station at 7 or 8 am but it happened that there is one direct bus to the place we wanted go, Llamac, at 5am.... thus, after short argument we decided to go to Chiquian, sleep there over and next morning go to Llamac and start the trek. Once we got off the bus in Chiquian, there were about 20 pairs of eyes on us... Seemed like they haven´t seen any Gringo for ages. There we were in really local place, and that is what we were missing. Thus, we said that even if the weather will be horrible it was worth going there to see that place, talk to the people, drink beer in rain on the main square etc. While we were waiting for the bus, people told us that the weather in Huayhuash now is quite horrible. In the mornings there is few hours of sun but later on is pouring rain - starting from, let´s say, 1-2pm. But we decided to go there anyways. Thus, about 11am have hit the bottom of our path which was in village called Llamac at 3300m above see level. What was our aim for first day??? At the beginning only 1000m change of altitude - means to reach pass at 4300m. ... Well, no worries! what´s that for us (me and Zosia) - best trekkers ever met! ;) We wouldn´t make it? Oh, c´mon... but what is more - it was not the end... it was only 1/3 of the distance. About 0,5h before we reached the pass started raining and has got really foggy. But what more - there were thunderstorms all around us.... Great, ey??? But when we reached the pass... the view was stunning and breathtaking.... We could see almost all peaks on the other side of the valley. We could see Yerupaja, the second highest peak in Peru, as well as Jirishanca with it´s Grande and Chico tops. All that hidden a little bit in the clouds but visible enough to be very impressive. Ok, after taking some pictures and taking off raincoats (not needed any more!!! (surprising, huh!) we have taken off again. Now much easier because almost all the time down the hill. As it was said, around 1-2pm started really raining thus rest of the day we were trekking in the rain. We passed the village right in the middle of nowhere. We thought it was abandoned but when one dog almost have eaten us we realized it is not abandoned. Lucky us that some people showed up and called that crazy dog back home. That is how we reached first camping place, next to the lagoon right at the bottom of the glacier coming down from Yerupaja. We had put up the tent in the rain, slept and cooked in the rain and woke up in quite clear weather. Oh... cooking... that is another story... in Patagoni we had found new camping gas who somebody abandoned thus we took care of it :) And since our first camping gas was running out of supply we took the new one. The problem is that we didn´t check if it fits to our cook.... and right there, when we were totally cold and looking forward to warm meal it came out that the camping gas and the cook does not actually fit each other.... To remind you - that was the first out of 4 days in the mountains.... But after cutting off some plastic parts of the cook and Zosia´s doing her vbest - we finally managed to attach each other an cook. Although, many times it kept falling apart and stop working. It took us about 2h to cook but finally we managed. later on, next days Zosia has invented the way how to improve and she knotted the whole thing with some knitting wool and it worked much better. Her father would be proud of her :)
Next day we were supposed to reach the pass of altitude 4750m. We did hike up, meeting cows all the way up there - no idea why they did climb up there since there was not too much of grass. But apparently those were the cow´s scouts! Hihihi..... At the pass we realized there is no longer any path visible. But we crossed because it seemed we´re on the right way. We have went down of the very steep slope helping with the bushes and at the bottom of the "sub-valley" we have got attacked by the cows. No, kidding but suddenly all cows of the herd started approaching us being very interesting. Apparently they don´t see people, especially crazy Polish people in the place. Ok, we descended a bit more, encountered some hut and its inhabitants who asked for.... some medicines!!!! yes, as usually... I started running off by that time... At the bottom of the main valley we came to the village... It happened to be the miner place where they extract the zinc and lead. But what is more important.... we realized we are about 7km down the valley than we wanted to end up... But luckily, the first person we asked where we are told us that in 2h will go up the valley with his truck and can give us the ride. While we were riding, it came out that, apparently, that was quite an important person in that company (btw. cooperating with the Japanease. Ha! Now we know where Japan has their source of zinc and lead. Ok, again we have put up the tent in rain there - nothing new. Next day when we woke up - it was all totally foggy,,, great beginning of the day, ey? We had to pay 15 soles each, but bargained down to 30 for all. Then another pass - this time only 450m change of altitude. And than all the way down.... We lost the way again, but after finding it we decided to cross another pass. it was quite easy trail but we didn´t know that it will be so long. Basically it was raining that day all the time thus we didn´t see much of landscapes, we reached the altitude where it was snowing already. Zosia kept swearing at all the passed cows, I was totally soaked. When we finally reached the pass, I said that I´m not able to walk any more - I was too soaked and frozen. We had hard time putting up the tent since we couldn´t feel our hands. When we finally did it took me about 1-2h to stop shaking. I have drunk a bit of Amol, then we drunk the tea from coca leaves and later on ate the dinner with a looooooooot of garlic.... As a result of that we were ok next day. The very next day, we have reached the Laguna Caruacocha which was supposed to be the most beautiful place in Huayhuash with view of all the peaks - Yerupaja, Siula Grande and all the surrounding... But as you can guess - it was all in the fog....
As a result of all that we were really angry and very quickly walked down the river to the first village. On the way, again, we have met some people living in the mountains who were taking care of cows, killing and preparing pig, all kids running around and asking for candies. Finally we came to the first village called Caruacocha were we were told are only 3 cars in entire village and we had to pay huge amount of money to get out of that place. Second stop were Banos del Inca. We hitch hiked from there to next village called Rondoz were we did our best to hitch hike further. We waited in rain for o,5h and gave up a bit. Went back to village to ask if there is any taxi collectivo who could give us a ride. We walked around entire village, visited all places where people were hiding from rain (thus we made friends-amigos- with everybody). basically nobody would take us so we had to sleep over night and in the morning - supposedly - we will go by bus directly to Huaraz. In the morning we woke up and waited and waited and waited.... and the bus did not come. But while we were waiting we could observe life of the village f.ex. how kids are going to schools, like people are getting on the truck to go to other village to school, taking to them and again make friends. Some of them approached us for 0,5m and looked into our eyes saying "Los ojos! Azul!!! Que bueno! Me gusto mucho!" which means " Your eyes! Blue! How nice, I love it!".... quite exceptional experience when not known people approach you that close and look into your eyes. Another guy happened to be an teacher going to other school because it was the day of an exam for kids.
So, it seemed that we will have to wait another 4h for next bus, after waking up at 6am. But suddenly came one collectivo and the driver was so nice that agreed to take us with other woman waiting as well. He took us with our luggage although there were already 4people inside. Se we ended up with 8 people in one car. Not combi to be noticed! On the way we have got splashed inside the car, we have passed the guy riding a bike with actual old-school radio hanging on his neck. Traveling that way, we reached La Union and from there went to Huaraz. Thus the adventure with Cordiliera Huayhuash ended.
Just to remind you - don´t go there any other time except May till July. If locals look at you as a weirdo and ask why do you go there because the weather is not good - think it over and probably, the best - change your plans.Well, it is not that I´m not happy that we went there but it could be such a better fun if go in different time.
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